Ormus – How to make your own.

How to make alchemical White Powder Gold / Ormus / Mono-atomic Gold.

Please read this ENTIRE tutorial completely before making a decision as to whether or not you can or want to undertake this process yourself. It requires working with extremely caustic chemicals (lye) and a fair degree of observation and coordination/manual dexterity. If this scares you I encourage you to obtain your ormus from Blue Rose Alchemy rather than doing it yourself. Obviously I’ve written this very detailed tutorial because I encourage folks to go through the same learning process I went through. I fully realize we don’t all have the time to master this skill set nor do we all want to but we should all want ormus in our lives.

I also highly encourage everyone to get a copy of Ormus: Modern Day Primer written by one of the students of esteemed alchemist Don Nance who is quite the authority on ormus production if you’ve done your homework by watching All the Gold You Can Eat. If the prospect of reading a book to “get your learn on” or even watching a documentary seems like something completely unreasonable I encourage you to stop reading now and Bravely Run Away or order your ormus from someone rather than produce it yourself.

Process Overview:

In the first part of the process we’ll be making a concentrated lye solution. This is by far the most dangerous part of the process. Pay heed to the cautions that have been thrown up. If you don’t you’ll shortly understand why they were there in the first place.

The second part of the process is precipitating the drop. This involves adding the lye solution to a saline solution to facilitate a chemical reaction. This is known as the “drop step” in which the ormus will fall out of solution and form a powder that settles at the bottom of the reaction vessel.

The third part of the process is known as “the wash” and involves letting the ormus settle for several days, pulling the clear water/lye/salt solution you created in step two off of the top of the reaction vessel, adding fresh clean water and stirring the ormus. This is repeated a total of 3 times. With each wash process you’re halving the lye/salt concentration. By the 3rd wash the ormus is considered safe.

It should also be noted that the wash water coming out of the reaction vessel in the first two steps has too much salt and lye to be useful so it’s typically discarded. However, the water from the 3rd wash still contains a significant amount of ormus even though the water is clear. 3rd wash water is excellent for plants and gardening.

Make the Lye solution:

Warning / Danger:

Lye is dangerous. I can and will burn you if it comes in contact with human skin in high concentrations. Use EXTREME caution when working with Lye. Protective eye wear and gloves are highly recommended. Work outdoors or directly under a high-efficiency vent. Have distilled vinegar on hand to neutralize the Lye if necessary. Work in a contained area (a plastic tote or something on that order to contain any spills. Making the lye solution is really the only dangerous part of ormus production. Read the ENTIRE procedure before getting started. Then read it again… and then again. Know what you’re doing. Have a plan for spills or accidental exposure or problems with fumes.

Author’s Notes:

On proportions: You will likely notice that my advised measurements and proportions to not match those in the book (mentioned below). This is because I’ve done MANY batches now, likely over 100, and I have come to a greater understanding of the process. The process using the measurements listed below are much more efficient while still being true to the overall process.

On litmus paper vs digital ph meters: Litmus paper is a good GENERAL measurement of PH but IMO the process of creating ormus needs much more precision than this. In essence, litmus paper is near useless for this process. Go with the digital meter. It’ll cost you about $80 to get the meter + the calibration solution but the accuracy compared to litmus paper is in a completely different league.

On using lye: I’ve heard many people speak unkindly toward using lye in the ormus process. It is a necessary evil. There is no way around that. It must be taken seriously as it’s a serious substance. As to it being un-healthy as some have claimed, I understand your concern, however, I suggest you do some research. You’d be surprised how many common every day foods utilize lye. There is also a specific process at the end of production that if done correctly will wash the vast majority of the lye out of the solution and return them to safe levels.

Materials Needed:

Do this part of the operation either outside or under a good quality vent hood. There will be some fumes. Make sure there is NO danger of pets or small children wandering in. You’re going to leave the lye solution to cool for several hours. It needs to be safe while it cools. Lye is VERY dangerous if not handled properly. Have the white vinegar unsealed and standing by. If you spill the lye use the vinegar to neutralize it.

Line the bottom of the tote with the towel. Perform all operations on the towel in the tote. If you spill the towel will catch it and the tote will contain the spill which is FAR preferable to having to deal with a rapidly spreading spill.

Put on the gloves and eye protection. Do NOT remove them until you’re going to walk away from the lye solution for it to cool down.

Fill the glass jar with approximately 3/4 of a gallon of distilled water.

Carefully open the lye bottle and measure out (roughly, no need to be exact) 2 cups of lye. SLOWLY pour the lye into the water. (Always pour lye into water, never water into lye. You won’t like the results if you do.)

There will be a VERY noticeable chemical reaction as the lye goes into solution. It will get hot. VERY hot, to the point that the first time I did this process I mixed the solution in a milk jug instead of a glass jar and I damn near melted the jug.

Once 2 cups of lye have been added, stir gently with the spatula until all the lye has been dissolved.

Put the lid on the jug (loosely) there may still be some off gassing and leave it to cool for several hours. I do not recommend handling the jug without gloves and eye protection on. If the solution gets on your skin IMMEDIATELY wash with vinegar to neutralize.

Once cooled, I store my lye solution in an empty plastic white vinegar jug (this is the right kind of plastic for this kind of chemical. It has a 2 on the bottom with a triangle around it) (LDPE plastic). If you do not have an empty distilled vinegar container I suggest dumping the vinegar from the extra jug, rinsing with water and using it to store the lye solution (or use the vinegar for cleaning around the house. it’s very use stuff. Google it. The point is you want a storage container that will seal and will not be easily broken and easy to pour from. The glass jar is needed because the plastic bottles have a hard time absorbing the thermal shock of the chemical reaction.

With a large marker write “Danger, Poison. Lye. Causes Burns. Neutralize with Vinegar” on all sides of the jug.

Do Your Homework:

We HIGHLY recommend you get a copy of this book and study the first 90 pages VERY carefully. It will teach you much more than what is covered here.

Precipitating the drop.

Your goal in this step is to get the suspended ormus to drop out of the salt solution you’re going to make. It will turn your water cloudy. You’ll measure progress by using your PH meter. With the meter listed on the amazon site you want to stop at a calibrated PH of 10.6.

Materials Needed:


Lay the towel down on your working surface. It will catch any minor spills and contain them easily and quickly.

Test and calibrate your digital meter to the 10ph point using calibration fluid

Add the the 2 cups of bokek salt to the jar. (do this before adding the water because you don’t want to over-fill the jar.)

Fill the jar about 3/4 up with water and add the sea salt. Stir with the spatula till it all dissolves. This may take some time.

Clip your PH meter to the rim of the jar, turn it on and make sure the probe is in the water. Add more water if necessary to bring it up to the probe level.

Continuously Squirt (with the wash bottle) or pour (VERY SLOWLY) some of the lye solution into the jar containing the salt water WHILE continuously stirring the solution rapidly with the spatula.

The water will instantly start to get cloudy and you’ll see flakes of ormus (known as doves) forming.

Slowly continue to add the lye solution while stirring constantly as the PH rises. You will hit a “buffer period” where you feel like you’re pouring in lots of lye solution and it’s not moving the ph meter anymore. Don’t Panic. This is expected. You are overcoming the buffer. For me this is usually around PH 9.4 to 9.7. Watch very carefully. When you overcome the buffer the meter may start to rise very rapidly.

Your goal is a target of ph 10.6 with this meter. The actual goal is 10.78 but this meter has a +/- of 0.1 so a calibrated reading of 10.6 is always going to be safe. Never exceed 10.78. If you do there’s another procedure discussed in the book that you have to do. I’m not going into that here.

It’s best to pour the lye solution in small doses. You’ll notice that the meter goes up and then if you stop adding the solution it will go back down again by 0.1 or 0.2 points. This is because as you add the lye to the top of the jar the meter records a higher reading, but as the lye diffuses throughout the solution it goes down again slightly.

When the reading stabilizes at 10.6 you’re done for now. Put the lit on it and set it aside in a low EM zone or in a metal box for 24 hours. If your jar lid is metal and is not coated with plastic on the bottom then put a double-layer of Saran wrap over the top of your jar THEN secure the top. This solution is very caustic and will not react well with metal.

The Wash.

The ormus will have settled to the bottom and will have left a clear liquid on top. Your goal now is to “wash” the caustic salt solution out of the ormus. The general rule is 3 washes. However, in the interest of saving you some Lye, you’re going to capture the clear water left over from the process above and use THAT as your new water for the next batch. It’s already very caustic and it’ll take much less Lye solution to get to the right PH.

Return to your original jar now about 1/2 empty but with lots of ormus. Pour in enough distilled water to fill the jar, put on the lit with the Saran wrap and shake away. Let sit in your EMF box or EMF free zone for another day.

Repeat the wash process 2 more times for a total of 3 additions of water. Let the ormus settle 24-48 hours between each batch but don’t save this water for re-use. it doesn’t have enough lye to be useful. Some let it settle for as long as 7 days. The longer it settles the more concentrated it will be.

After the 3rd wash, pull off the clear water and your ormus is done. Over the next 48 hours it will continue to settle a bit more, You can pull off the clear water if you want or leave it. All of this remaining liquid is considered to be the ormus. You can shake it up to redistribute the ormus evenly in the solution (advisable) or just pull the thicker ormus from the bottom, but that means as you start to run out your ormus will get weaker.

It sounds like a lot, but once you do the procedure a few times it’s not that big of a deal. At least the bokek salt does not require boiling and straining!

2-3 cups of sea salt will make almost 1/2 a gallon of ormus. It’s highly advisable that you read the first 90 pages of the ormus book before you do this procedure. You’ll learn a LOT and you’ll understand WHY these procedures are so specific and why there are very specific things on the amazon list.